Spring de-winterization is more than just flushing out pink antifreeze. It is your annual opportunity to verify
the structural integrity of your plumbing, sanitize the fresh water tank, and perform critical maintenance on
your water heater after months of dormancy.
Field Insight: Do not turn your water heater valves back to "Normal" until after you
have flushed the antifreeze out of the main lines. You don't want sediment or residual antifreeze entering the
heater tank if you can avoid it.
If you used the "Pink Stuff" (Propylene Glycol), you must remove it from every branch of the plumbing.
Antifreeze is non-toxic, but it has a lingering "slick" texture and a slightly sweet smell that can ruin
your first cup of coffee.
City Water Connection: Connect your drinking water hose and pressure regulator.
Fixtures: Open every faucet (hot and cold) until the water runs clear and bubbles stop.
Don't forget the outside shower and the toilet flush.
Low Points: Open your low-point drains briefly to ensure no antifreeze is trapped in
the "bottom" of the loop.
Step 2: Fresh Tank Sanitation (Bleach Method)
Stagnant water and residual moisture in an empty tank are breeding grounds for bacteria. Sanitation is
mandatory after winter storage.
The Bleach Calculation
Use 1/4 cup of unscented, liquid household bleach per 15 gallons of fresh water tank
capacity.
Tank Capacity
Bleach Amount
30 Gallons
1/2 Cup
60 Gallons
1 Cup
100 Gallons
1-2/3 Cups
The Scent Test: Once the bleach is in the tank, run the pump and open all faucets until you
smell a strong "pool-like" chlorine scent. Shut the faucets and let the mixture sit for at least 4
hours (8–12 hours is better for full sanitization).
Step 3: Restoring the Water Heater
Now that the system is sanitized and flushed, it's time to bring the water heater back online.
Close the Drain: Reinstall the anode rod (Suburban) or the plastic plug (Atwood). Apply
fresh Teflon tape to the threads.
Bypass Valves: Turn the two (or three) bypass valves at the back of the heater to the
"Normal" position.
Fill the Tank: Turn on a hot water faucet. The pump (or city water) will push air out
of the heater tank. You will hear sputtering. Once a steady stream of water flows, the heater tank is
full.
Maintenance Tip: This is the best time to inspect your Anode Rod. If more
than 75% of the magnesium is gone (exposing the center wire), replace it. See our Heater Component Guide.
Step 4: The Static Pressure Leak Test
Even a small drip can rot an RV floor over time. Perform this professional leak check before your first trip:
Turn OFF city water.
Fill the fresh tank half-way.
Turn ON the 12V water pump until it primes and shuts off.
Wait 30 minutes with no faucets open.
The Result: If the pump "kicks on" briefly during that 30 minutes, you have a slow
leak. Check under sinks, the water heater fittings, and the toilet base.
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About the Author
Adam Hall — Founder, DecisionGrid
DecisionGrid's technical guides are written and reviewed using:
System-level electrical analysis
Real-world RV troubleshooting patterns
Manufacturer documentation review
Field-tested diagnostic workflows
Our goal: Clear, structured troubleshooting — not guesswork.
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