Replacing a malfunctioning RV water heater element can be done by following a structured 45-minute DIY process, potentially saving on technician fees. This guide outlines essential safety precautions, required tools, and step-by-step instructions for a successful replacement.
Generated from this page. Always verify technical specs.
Element replacement usually requires these tools.
| Tool | Why You Need It |
|---|---|
| 🔧 Best Multimeter for RV | Test element resistance before replacing |
| 🔧 Water Heater Not Working | Diagnosis guide and element specs |
If your water heater works on propane but does nothing on electric, the most likely culprit is a "dry-fired" or calcified heating element. This is a 45-minute DIY job that requires a few specialized tools but can save you $200+ in mobile technician labor fees.
Success depends on having the right socket. A standard wrench will not fit in the tight recess of the water heater housing.
Turn off the AC breaker. Open the outside access door and pull the T&P relief valve to release pressure. Unscrew the drain plug (anode rod) and let at least 5 gallons of water drain out. The water level must be below the element, or you will be flooded when you unscrew it.
Located on the face of the heater (often behind a small plastic protective cover) are two wires connected to the element. Use a screwdriver to remove the wires. Take a photo first to ensure you reconnect them to the correct terminals.
Use your 1-1/2" socket to unscrew the old element. It may be stiff due to calcium buildup. Once removed, inspect the tank opening for scale. Slide the new rubber gasket onto the new element and thread it in by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Tighten firmly with the socket.
Reconnect the two 120V wires. Reinstall the drain plug. CRITICAL: Turn on your city water or pump and open a hot water faucet. Wait until all air is purged and a steady stream of water flows. Only then can you flip the breaker back on.
| Brand | Standard Element | Socket Size |
|---|---|---|
| Suburban | 1440W, 120V (Screw-In) | 1-1/2" |
| Atwood (Dometic) | 1400W, 120V (Screw-In) | 1-1/2" |
For more troubleshooting on why hot water fails, see: RV Water Heater Not Working: Full Diagnostic. If the heater lights then shuts off, see RV water heater keeps shutting off.
If you're diagnosing RV electrical or appliance problems, these guides may help:
RV Water Pump Not Working | RV Water Pump Runs But No Water | RV Water Pump Cycling | Low Water Pressure | RV Water Pressure Regulator Problems | RV Water Heater Not Working | RV Water Heater Keeps Shutting Off | Black Tank Not Draining | RV Toilet Won't Flush | RV Toilet Smells | RV Sink Not Draining | Best RV Pressure Regulator | Best RV Water Pump
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Last updated: March 2026 · Reviewed for technical accuracy